Thursday, February 19, 2009

The Sea of Cortez

Watching the whales was incredible! The drive out to the lagoon was along a windy bumpy dirt road that would have caused anyone motion sickness. Fortunately no one was so afficted. Once at the lagoon eleven of us were loaded unto a small boat via a pickup truck backing up into the narrow water. For the next three hours we wandered the waters looking at the whales. This place is incredible, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We saw numerous grey whales breach the surface in the distance. We saw whales mating and young ones. They came very close to the boat and some people actually were able to touch them. Taking photos was tough though because you had to aim at the right spot at just the right time, hope no one stepped in front of your camera, and the whales never appeared in the same place twice. It was truely a memorable experience!

That same day we left Guerrero Negro and with the help of a good tailwind made excellent time. For the next two days the terrain was mostly flat a filled with various cactus. Stopping at San Ignacio the next evening was wonderful. It is a very picturesque town nestled in the San Franciso Mountains (which are home to N. America´s greatest collection of cave paintings; something for next time). California fan-plams are prevelant throughout the town and the small city center was beautiful. The old Jesuit mission there was in wonderful shape and awe inspiring. We decided to spend the night along the palm lined riverbank.

I went to the local market and found some baked goods. I was so happy to find out that I had bought some banana bread. I have been craving it in a big way and never expected to find it. My breakfast of eggs and bread was beyond incredible! We went back into town to look at the cave painting museum. We had a wonderful chat (in English) with the currator who was part of the local bike club. We talked about cycling and bikes. It was great to find out how popular cycling is in Mexico. The have regional races once a month. Unfortunately cycling gear is so expensive because they have to order from the U.S. So Mexico seems to have more of a bicycle culture than the U.S., but no easy means of acquiring gear. We planned on leaving town that morning, but the wind changed our minds. Unfortunately the next day wasn´t much better. Fortunately the afternoon wind died down a bit and we arrived in Santa Rosalia on the Sea of Cortez. It is a wonderful old French influenced town. So hopefully we shall rest up well, eat some good food, and enjoy our ride along the Sea before turning inland.

Sunday, February 15, 2009

Cactus and Whales

Hola from Guerro Negro,

Finally after 7 days my glorious posterior has had the opportunity to grace a piece of porcelon. The bros and I have just finished crossing a sparcly populated stretch of beautiful Baja. From San Quintin we ended spending three days on the beach. I was recovering and meanwhile Dave got sick. There was a decent restaurant nearbye with excellent happy hour deals. Unfortunately all three nights in rained. Early morning of our second day I awoke with an odd feeling and a moment later a wave washed under my tent. Although we were safe from the normal high tide the sea was rapidly and quietly approaching. I rushed to drag my tent out of the way of the next wave. We all moved to the highest ground around, but the ocean almost got to us again.

The next day Mark and I returned to town for more groceries. We got some good pastries and a wonderful pizza.On the way back from town the rain began to fall. Our bikes were alreading ladden with mud. After three days the weather cleared and it was good to be moving South again. The ride along the coast was splendid. Unfortunately Mark was now feeling ill so the next day was another rest day. I decided to go into town and get some good food, which I was in dire need of. Tearing some meat in my teeth was very satisfying.

The following morning we left San Rosarita and headed into the hills. For the next three days the scenery was once again spectacular. Cactus were everywhere! Fortunately the wind pushed us along and we made good time. The road was narrow and windy, but traffic was light so it was not a problem. Most of the drivers and considerate and friendly. We averaged over 65 miles for three days, which is quite good. Now that we are once again conditioned we are able to ride long miles with time to spare. So now we are in Guerro Negro having finished an excellent lunch, done our laundry (first time in three weeks) and plan to shower. Oh the simple things. Tomorrow we are dolling out some good cash to hopefully see a lot of grey whales.

So here´s to whales, good food, and sunny skies ;-)

Friday, February 6, 2009

Baja, Mexico !!

Gosh this Spanish keyboard has a few differnces! I can´t figure out a few of the keys, so excuse my grammer. In short Baja is very beautiful and the people are friendly. Crossing the border at Tecate was a good choice, it is a very nice city. The scenery was incredible and has been improving every day. In Tecate we had our first Mexican meal at a restaurant, the first of many. Riding out of Tecate it was a bit hot and the climb was steep. I did not realize we were only 20 minutes for Tijuana.

We arrived in Escanada the next day and found a good hotel. It even had english television so I could watch some of the Super Bowl. We ate at a wonderful Chinese buffet 'Escanda has wonderful Chinese). The next morning we found the grocery store and then headed for La Bufadora, where the world´s second largest ocean geyser is located. Unfortunately it was not exploding much, but the campsite that night had wonderful views. We shared two 6' packs of Mexican cervasa for about $10. The next day we cycled back to HWY 1. Before riding on we sampled a recommended seafood cocktail 'octopus, srimp, clams). That afternoon the weather became quite warm, around 80 degrees. Later in the afternoon we turned off the HWY to head for the beach, headed for Coyote Cal´s hostel. The last 3 miles of road were horrible and the hostel was very overpriced. Fortunately we camped for free, did laundry, got more beer, and enjoyed a good dinner. Unfortunately I threw up six times that night, most likely due to the seafood cocktail. The next two days were absolute misery. Try riding with a sore back, dehydrated, no food in your stomach. Trust me it ain´t NO fun. Two days later and some quality toilet time later I´m better.

So now we our South of San Quinten and planning a rest day on the beach. Which is good because Dave´s snoring abilities have drastically increased in decibils. ARG. So here´s to nice weather and good health. At least I´m not in Ann Arbor where it´s 20 degrees today.

P.S. Sorry about no photos, but the computer is very slow.