On the Olympic Peninsula

So I survived the night of horrible mosquitoes. Stuffing a feast of hamburgers while attempting to keep the bugs out of my mouth was not enjoyable; returning to Bellingham and its bookstores was. I spent the day cruising along the coastal agricultural lands and it was simply pleasant. Later in the day I decided to take a side trip to Anacortes, having been here twice before. The stop at Safeway continued my search for bananas that were actually ripe, once again I failed. I was tired and decided to stop at the elementary school to camp in its back field.


The next day I continued along and felt the scary rush of trucks as they rumbled across the Deception Pass bridge. It was pretty nice, but HWY 20 was simply too busy. As soon as I got off the main route riding was enjoyable on Wibley Island once again. Then it was on the ferry and finally I was on the Olympic Peninsula after dreaming of it many times. Port Townsend with its abundance of historic structures was endearing. I bought a book of John Wesley Powell's travels and visited the library and local farmers' market. Simply a beautiful town and thanks to the local bicycle club I had cycling maps for half of the peninsula. I set off and near Sequim came upon two cyclists riding the coast. We decided to camp together and had a relaxed evening and warm showers.


The next day we leisurely cycled the Olympic Discovery trail, which was largely on multi-use paths. At Port Angeles they took the ferry to Victoria while I loaded up with four days food. At the post office picking up my package I found Chandler. We caught up on the last two days apart and then after debating what to do decided to cycle up Hurricane Ridge. We camped that night outside the road on a blockaded road. Hanging the bear bag that night was tricky, but I made it down the tree safely. The next day Chandler and I enjoyed the constant grades on the climb to Hurricane Ridge. From sea level to over five thousand seemed easy and at the top we could see into the heart of the Olympic Mountain range and across the waters to Victoria and Bellingham. It was a thrilling descent all the way down! We feasted on chicken from Safeway. While we were eating I saw the Canadian cyclists who I thought were long past. It was a grand happy reunion! Then the ferry came in and Frank and Jarred where back! We joined forces and the party train left Port Angeles. We tried to find a place to camp off a insanely steep gravel road and almost camp in the middle of a dirt bike trail. Great randomness continued as my friend Nina got in touch with me via my horrible phone and we had a place to camp at Luke's just up the road. It boosted our spirits once again and the ride along Crescent Lake in the evening was calming. Luke's place on the lake was unbelievable and he was an awesome host along with all the rest. All four of us jumped into the lake. I was happy to see my friends again.


We decided to press onto Forks for Independence Day. At Luke's suggestion we took the mountain bike trail on the North side of the lake and it was a great adventure. We dove into the most beautiful cove I've ever seen! We charged towards Forks and found all the surrounding campgrounds full. But Frank and Jarred came up big time by finding a local hotel owner who let us camp on their back lawn. We watched cars being destroyed at the demolition derby. Then we feasted. Four hungry male cyclists celebrated the 4th of July with 4 Lbs of hamburger, 4 hot dogs, 1 Lb of bacon, a bag of potato chips, 1/2 Lb of cheese, a pound of veggies, and an onion. It was so much food we had to wait a half hour to polish off the large apple pie and milk shakes;-) The next day we had a meal of sausage, eggs and torillas. During breakfast a guy offered on of us $20 to be his partner in the horseshoe competition. Jarred had a great arm and unfortunately lost just out of the money round. Then the three cycled South and I went to Rialto Beach. It was overcast on my return to the Pacific, which put me in a reflective mood.

The next morning it was raining along my coastal campsite and picture taking was not an option. I headed out and back to Forks. By that evening I made it to the Hoh Rainforest and met Taylor, another cyclist on the coast. At dawn I hiked thru the moss drapped rainforest that forced one to slow and contemplate the length of time. Then I cycled out and spent one final night along the Pacific. Taylor and I walked the beach each on our own and then shared a 6-pack of brew. Once again rain, heavy rain found us in the morning. I joined up with a British couple and a Portland women and together we bore thru the rain. We all stopped at the local cafe and admist small puddles at our feet I ate a monster burger, fries, and a bowl of chili with ease. I stopped at the library and discovered my friend Nina was not going to be in Seattle this weekend so I decided to pass on a night with the cyclists in one of the nicest campgrounds of the trip. I missed an important turn and this forced me to cycle an extra 30-40 miles. It was maddening and depressing! And the campground that night was up a brutal hill in the dark! At least I got a shower and had a nice fire to warm the humid darkness. The next day at lunch I was afraid my pace was too slow to make the ferry and I used the last few weeks of riding to rush onwards. It was exhausting and there were some STEEP coastal hills that I was forced to climb. I rolled into Bremerton in good time and had a wonderful nap on the ferry ride across to Seattle. I awoke greatly rested just in time to see the skyline of Seattle dominating the horizon across Puget Sound. Then I was on solid ground and thus completed my ride. Except for the ride uphill into the wind to my friends' house. But there old friends and good food and brews at the end.

Up and Over and Again

Oops, it's been such a while since my last update. So here's the nitty gritty along with lots of written verbage.
So I left Omak in search of the dreamed of Safeway and Wal-Mart and somehow managed to bypass them both. It was either three miles back into the headwind or wait until Twisp. And so the decision was made that found me climbing the steep, oh so steep, slopes of Loup Loup Pass in the heat of the afternoon. On the early slopes of the climb I passed the sad shacks of the local farm workers. Poverty was most evident. Yet for me the climb started from the bottom and was accompanied by the first heat of the trip. I was suffering in no time. I couldn't go fast enough, couldn't drink water fast enough, couldn't find cool water fast enough. It was a slugfest of will and I was in the heat of it. Luckily I caught what had to be my last wind and happened upon what looked like an artesian well, which I filtered anyway just to be safe. I made the top of Loup Loup and descended a half mile to the campground, but found none of the promised water. Pissed galore I cycled the half mile back to the top of the pass and into another campsite. The water from the faucet had a fair tint of brown, but its water. Ate and napped and then moved back into the woods to stealth camp. Found a nice spot among the aromatic Ponderosa pines and was enjoying reading my book, every so often glancing about when some bird sang or a squirrel chattered. It was around 8 pm when I heard a sound and looking over found a bear feeding about. It was close, too close. If it was 30 yards closer we would have been reading the same book! It wandered off, but when it turned around I spooked it off. Ten minutes later it was back and knew I was there and so was food. This was a big grizzly bear and I ain't much practiced at grinning down a "bare" like Davey Crockett, yet I managed to make it out of there fast with clean laundry. I descended the Pass and found a new camp and hiked up the ridge to see the beautiful sunset with the Methow Valley hills below and the snow peaked Cascades in the distance.

Then just before dusk I heard what sounded like three bears just past the illumination of my headlamp, but I couldn't tell for sure and it was too dark to ride so I simply went back to sleep. At dawn I cycled into Twisp with my nerves a bit rattled. Found a bakery and then the grocery store. Cycled to Winthrop, a Western themed town, and hung out there.. The Canadians showed up and we exchanged stories. I bought a much needed pair of cycling socks. Decided to head out of town, but the winds punished me dearly. I'm stubborn though and I pressed on, not wanting to cycle this piece of beautiful road in weekend traffic. Found an okay camp, but was still afraid to be in the woods alone due to last night's excitement.

The next morning I crested Washington Pass in the North Cascades after pausing for lots of pictures. The wall of the rocky ridge bounded on the right by Liberty Bell simply grabs a person's eyes and holds them there like a beautiful woman. At the viewpoint I starred for a long while. Then it was a short ride to Rainy Pass where I had lunch with a young Swedish cyclist. After eating a lot of food I walked to Rainy Lake which was nice, but not enough, so I began walking the Maple Pass loop. I didn't know exactly how long the trail was, but it went up and the scenery kept getting better. After about two miles I was high enough that large patches of snow still clung to the North slopes; in my sandals it made for some cold feet but I really wanted to see the view from the top. I attained the corniced Pass and the distant line of glacier crested mountains capped by puffy clouds looking towards the towering Glacier Peak was so so wonderful! I felt like jumping up and down, crying, dancing a jig and running into the mountains' heart. Instead I took picture after picture that simply didn't begin to capture the scene. I could see mountains in all directions and snow continuing along the trail. I dashed across each stretch of cold whiteness and at each bare rock tried to warm my frigid feet. It took a while to reach the trailhead, but I eventually made it and my feet thawed out. And so I have accomplished my dream of walking in the Cascade Mountains. Yet I was starving so I made dinner and then changed back into my cycling clothes and climbed back up to the Washington Pass viewpoint to camp on the windswept rock outcropping. The temperature dropped to near freezing that night.

The next day I spent my time descending from the mountains towards the ocean. Along the way I saw Desolation Peak where Jack Kerouac manned a fire tower in the 50s; the experience would serve as inspiration for some of his stories. The side winds near Diablo Dam forced me to cling to the handlebars and hope that the wind would not topple my bicycle on the rushing descent. I hung about Marblemount for a few hours and then camped amongst the mosquitoes in the woods. The following morning I enjoyed biscuits n'gravy before cycling thru to Sedro Wooly. There I bought another snack and then went on a side trip to Burlington where I did my laundry and ran errands. In the afternoon on the way out of town I missed a turn, but my route was more direct so it worked out well. paid for the expensive primitive at Larrabee State Park. All things worked out well because I met Chandler, I cyclist from New York, and after we viewed a nice sunset some incredibly nice folks gave us leftovers from a birthday party. We feasted on hamburgers and chips, along with some cold brews.

The next morning we continued the beautiful ride along Chuckanut Drive and shortly arrived in Bellingham. We saw the sign to the Alaska ferry and wished for the great adventure, but reason barely won out. Bellingham was a swell looking town and I was glad that Chandler was as excited as me to explore the town a while. We perused a local antique store, caught up with the news at the local library, had lunch on the lawn, strolled the downtown streets, looked thru the local bike shop, spent time searching the shelves of a most wonderful used book store, and had a cold brew at one of the local breweries. Around four we left town and cycled the country roads to the Canadian border. There we split ways, hopping to meet again and I visited the International Peace Arch Park. It was a beautiful green borderland with a large white mason arch and both flags planted with flowers. Then I cycled back South alone having reached another milestone.

P.S To the one in the ditch under the bridge beside the road. Had I been blinded by the beautiful scenery, the rarest of wonderful cheery personalities would not have diminished my impressions. Was your trip in Glacier incredible?

Closer to home...into the Mountains

So I left Milk River, AL with the realization that my headset was loose and the fork was rockin' like a star. Maybe that 100 miles of gravel helped things along. But still I press on along Route 501 in the boon docks of beauty. Along the way I have to pause my ride to let a herd of cows on a cattle drive to watered pastures pass by. Next few miles I was dodging their fresh droppings. Got to be careful! Camped that night along side the road with the Canadian Rockies ever nearer. In Del Bonita two helpful locals tighten up my headset with standard tools and ingenuity. I make it to Cardston the home of Fay Wray (King Kong's Women) and am disappointed that the grocery store is smaller than I've been dreaming of. Then it's a poor campsite along the reservoir without water, but the next day all is good as I enter the mountains. Of course I had to pass by Pincher Creek and its spread of wind turbines, enough to strike fear into the heart of a cyclists, but the winds were calm today. With stormy skies threatening over the Crows Nest I decided to stop at the campground shelter in Bellvue. It was a good thing I stopped because it rained a bit throughout the day. Didn't like spending $3 on 1 1/2 liters of water though.

The next day the beauty of Crows Nest Pass made me pull over and snap photographs on a frequent basis. The small historic mining towns were also nice. Pressing on into British Columbia I visited the world's largest truck in Sparwood. Huge just doesn't do it justice. Bought some Nottingham Bread? Discovered that PB & J on sourdough bread tastes a bit funny. Then Fernie, a lovely resort town where folks ride their bikes everywhere, especially down roaring mountain descents. The craggy peaks surround the town and beckon to all with a sense of adventure. Unfortunately HWY 3 was busy and the shoulder was bad; probably more traffic passed me this afternoon than all the past two weeks combined! Yet I survived and after a quiet camp in the woods my sanity returned. Which was good because the next day it was back into the U.S and border officers can be tough. No worries though.
I found another cyclist in Eureka, MT who was part of a mountain bike race from Canada to Mexico; a gruelling 2,700 miles in about 30 days! Sounds hard, not fun. Then two other cycling tourists on the Northern Tier pulled in and we all spent the night at the town park. Pat and Dave were certainly a pleasure, and provided me the chance to share a 6-pack of Kootenay beer that I’d been craving after the dry prairies.

The next morning we splurged on bacon, eggs and orange juice. So wonderful of a change from oatmeal! Then they cycled East and I cycled West. Later that afternoon I watched two young black bears feeding along the roadside. Then I discovered an unmarked campsite near Libby Dam; it was stocked with firewood and the sunset that night lit up the sky. Thought of going for a dip, but it was too cold. Passed thru Libby, MT and stopped at Kootenai Falls where some movie was filmed. Then into Idaho and beautiful Cabinet Mountain Range and wetlands; which meant mosquitoes that night. The following day it was rain off and on as I passed thru Sandpoint, where I stopped to replace my worn cleats and talk with the friendly ladies at the local gear shop. Another suggested author to check out. That night at the COE campground in Priest River the surge of the shower pounded my skin. Felt like I could be clean for a week! Then into Washington, my fourth and final state. Beautiful quite road. The rough hardpack might have had something to do with that. Decided to stop after 55 miles and camped on a beautiful bluff overlooking the lazy Pend Oreille River.. The next day it rained off and on. Found some other cyclists in Colville, but didn't get to talk much because of the rain and cold; missed the Fathers' Day rodeo too.

That morning the sky looked stormy with few patches of blue, but just enough to sucker a guy. So the climb that is Sherman Pass began. 65 degrees at the base and by the top it was 35 and raining. I was a bit cold, hungry, low on water, pissed my map was wrong, and couldn't see the scenery. Yet after lunch things cleared up a bit and after covering my entire body against the elements I descended. Masked bandit cyclists descending upon the small mountain town of Republic. It was long and cold! In Republic I warmed up at the laundromat and then headed for the library. I was just lazin' in the sun on Main St. when Paul the local found me. Invited me to stay in a YURT for the evening and we had a good time drinking brews and eating a wonderful stir-fry. Awesome wonderful hospitality. Under clearing skies I made my way over Wauconda Summit and down into Tonasket. Stopped for a bit and then head on.. The air here has the scent of dryness and the sagebrush has appear. The rocky crags of the mountains add to the harsh beauty. Over a dozen cyclists passed me headed East, the most in one day. Good to see! Riding a side road with all the traffic from the highway detour and headwinds was not fun though. In Riverside I met Patrick and Linda, two Canadian cyclists headed East and we had a wonderful time trading stories. So I shall soon enter the Cascades, which was the impetuous for my initial bicycle touring foray way back in 2001. And so it all began...

I ain't froze stiff and my bones aren't bleaching on the the prarie

So it's been an adventure. On my layover in Chicago I stopped at Greek town for gyros. Pretty good! Also thinking that I should have waited a few days after the half marathon. I can barely walk my legs are so stiff! Hopefully I can ride thousands of miles on a bicycle?
So after assembling my bike in Minot, ND I decided I better get some maps and work out my route. I got some, yet my route keeps changing. Headed NW and was soon out of the "big" city and along the backroads and thru the small "towns". Stopped into a bar and soon I was in a guy's pickup headed out to the farm to see if the tires he had would work for my bicycle. Turned out they were the wrong size. Went on to the next town and stopped at the bar/cafe. Decided to splurge on a bacon cheeseburger and beer. PBR was as fancy as it got. Got talking with some old-timers and they were entertaining! Bought me another beer. Slept that night under the Western stars beyond the hundredth meridian, and gosh did I sleep swell.

Then I awoke sore, got breakfast, straddled my bike, and headed for the next bar. Now it may seem like this is one bar hopping bike tour, but ya must understand in the small towns that's all they got usually. These places aren't on the main road, the simple vinyl siding usually don't look like much, and you can never see inside so entering always a suprise. But there always a good place to meet the locals and tap into local knowledge. Really liked Crosby, ND. Got onto Route 5 and took it all the way thru to Ophiem, Montana. Along the way I passed thru Plentywood, MT where the great Sitting Bull returned to the U.S. from refuge in Canada. I chatted with a wonderful cheery girl mending fences on the ranch. Would have offered to help out, but Louis l'Amour and Zane Grey wouldn't like a ranch hand in lycra. The country is so beautiful here and so was she. Holed up in Scobey, Mt. to wait out the cold and rain. Spent a rest day there. Got some good groceries. Grocier told me that his daughter was state champ, despite the fact that the town pool is only open 6 weeks a year! Visited Pioneer Town and talked with the Edgar who lived it all. The wheat boom, and building of the Fort Peck Dam, and now the new West.

Then as the cold continued I headed for Canada. At such a small crossing I don't think the customs officer could really understand why I was there. Less traffic man! He let me in and the next day, which was colder than the last, I visited Wood Mountain Mountie Post. Not much there, but the women at the visitor center was helpful. Plus gave me hot water! So another re-route up to route 13 and the Red Coat Trail (NWMP). Stopped for the night in Ponteix. Not much there, expcept a nice Catholic church and of course the grain mill. Always the grain mill far out on the horizon announcing a cluster of buildings in the distance. The next day I made it to Eastend, my main destination in Saskatchewan. I just finished reading "Wolf Willow" by Wallace Stegner, one of my favorite Western/environmental authors, which in addition to other stuff, talks of his sence of place living a few years in Eastend. Stay in the nice park were Stenger once stayed. Finally some sunshine after days of cold and threatening colds. The next day I visited the town musuem and the Stegner house (it's now a place for artists of all sorts to stay and work). It was a mythical experience in Cypress Hills.

That afternoon I headed out and by early evening was in Consul. Stopped by at the town's bakery for it's grand opening. Chatted with the family for a bit. Grandpa tells me proudly of his daughter who just became discus champion of the province. Everyone in Canada I've talked to is so friendly and helpful. Lots of people wave as they pass by me. Load up with water and head out for Havre, MT along the now gravel road. People in Saskatchewan admit they have bad roads, but for cycling their not so bad. The road was not so bad so I decided to chance it and go route 501. Cross into Alberta and camp on the prarie beside the cow pasture with no one around for miles. The sunset, the sense of solitude, it was magical! Next morning more gravel road. As long as it's not loose and mostly hardpack it's okay, but then it ain't always good. Get to the junction of Route 41 and decide to stay on the gravel road. Then the gravel got looser and at one point two dozen trucks passed me kicking up so much dust I couldn't see the next one coming. I couldn't pull off because the mosquitoes had made their appearance in great force. Miserable, tired, hungry, low on water, and miles of prarie to pass. If discovered that the prarie can change faces. It can be beautiful solitude at dawn and dusk, but under the burning afternoon sun can change to and endless horizon of desolation. Finally, 20 miles past my exhaustion point I reach Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park. The hoodoo rock formations are beautiful even in my tired dusty state. Check-in, buy a blue raspberry slushie, brain FREEZE, drink some water. ah.... it's all good folks because I ain't froze stiff (it's nice and warm again) and my bones aren't bleaching on the prarie ( and the mountains are a days ride away).

Is this for Real?

My last post ended with my Mom arriving from Michigan. So some of you may be wondering what happened next. Some of you may not even have thought that. So to enlighten those who wonder about my wanderings you may proceed to read.

So after my Mom picked me up in the nice town of Leesburg, VA we headed for a hotel. Room had a fridge, stove, microwave, basically a fully stocked kitchen. It was really nice, but I also thought it was a waste. Just think of all those folks who need this stuff and can't afford it. Got dinner from the grocery store because there was no restaurant close by. The following day we spent exploring Manassas Battlefield, where the ground forces first clashed in the Civil War. Little evidence left, mostly just nice quiet fields within the Park. The next day we took the bus into Washington D.C. This place has lots of buildings, I visited 5 briefly. Walked around a lot, especially the beautiful Capital Hill neighborhood. Broke down a bought a pay-as-you-go phone, because it's cheaper than pay phones (which are dern hard to find) and I miss my friends. Took some pictures. My boss contacted me and told me he might not have work for me this summer. Gosh dern, ARG, a bit late notice. Now I have to explore my options and that's stressful. Returned to hotel late evening.

The next day we returned and I wandered some more. Met up with a friend with Colorado and we had a really nice time just sitting on a bench along the Potomac River talking. She's wonderful fun! Enjoyed Chipotle burrito for dinner. Took some nice photos. That night we moved on the Fredericksburg and the next day drove to Williamsburg. I met up with another Colorado friend (made the big time with a National Park Service job!) and we spent a really fun unplanned day together. We got a pizza and soda, played a round of miniature golf, stopped by his house, got some drinks at the local watering holes, threw a frizbee like thing around, went to the local Greek festival for some more good food. Fun days end, back to hotel.

The next day we toured Fredericksburg and Wilderness battlefields. At the former Boy Scouts were placing candles at the graves of the fallen, to be lit that night. The famous Confederate "Stonewall" Jackson met his unfortunate end at the former. Robert E. Lee pounded the stonger Federal forces once again. That night we drove back thru Maryland and into Pennsylvania. Sunday we visited Gettysburg, which has a ton of monuments, also very popular and thus crowded. Seeing it myself gave me a better impression of the landscape. Recommended place to visit. Need to see the movie again. So we saw lots of battlefields, and it was Memorial Day weekend so that was fitting. And after weighing my options I decided to return to Michigan with my Mom.

Memorial Day we spent driving the high speed arteries of the road West thru Pennsylvania, Ohio, and Michigan. Everyone is in such a rush, difficult to get used to. Arrive back in Ann Arbor that night. The next day lounge around in the morning. In the afternoon I run to visit my fried at work. Run/walk back to the house. About 11 miles total, and so ends my first training run for the local half-marathon on Sunday. The rest of the week I do more stuff. Bake goodies, relax run once more. On Saturday I ride to town, get some new gear, find two books that I really wanted at a used book store (got the third for free. Support your local bookstore). Awesome! Wallace Stegner is a wonderful Western author, a must read!

So today I ran the half-marathon with my awesome friend, Bob. So Awesome!! The clocks on first few miles were off, way off. Didn't have a watch, felt okay, but thinking that two training runs was not enough. Kept running. Good roadside band rocking. Long strech between miles 8-12. Finally Main St. and a gradual climb to the finish. Sprint last part. Done and exhaused, but didn't feel like throwing up this year. Eat food, drink water, look for my friend. So sorry I missed your finish Bob. You Rock!! Get a ride home and take a nap. Hard to walk, will soon be missing two toenails. Dinner with family.

And so by now you may be saying "blah, blah, blah. What about the opitons? What's up my sleeve". So let me explain. In Leesburg, VA I walked into a coffee shop a saw young professionals in suits plugged into their computers. Scared me something serious. It just ain't for me. Plus I still seek adventure and find I can't sleep well in a soft bed. A tent and some forest duff is what I need! So tomorrow I board the Amtrak from Toledo (same place my brothers and I departed for the last journey in January). After a day on the train (hopefully letting my sore muscles recover) I'm getting off in Minot, North Dakota to continue my ride around America. I miss the West and so I'm returning to it, along with my Wallace Stegner books. Stegner in Stegner country, now how could I pass up the chance!

So if ya still want to, you are invited to continue following my journey...
"I don't know where I'm going, but I'm on my way" Carl Sandburg

If not today, then tomorrow, or both

It's been a while since my last update and a lot has happened since. So let me give ya'll a guick summary of the past two weeks since leaving Asheville.
Disclaimer: If you think bicycle touring is all sunny days of fun in the sun, are about to take your first tour, or don't like rants please skip the following paragraph.

Out of Asheville: Cloudy skies, killer hill, good thing my legs are fresh, gosh I'm tired, sweating, tired, a bit sore, another hill, bit of end of day rain. Another day, continue hills, downpour, soggy clothing, more rain, more hills. Next day: dense fog, no riding, more rain, bit of sun, more rain. Next day: Cloudy, another detour, no sympathy about trials, downpour, busy traffic into Boone. Next seven days: Rain, more rain, climb, another climb, gosh dern another climb, my legs are so sore, another climb, okay now they are really sore and tire, more rain, when will the sun shine? why can't my legs work? My mileage sucks! More rain, bit of sun followed by more rain and hills. Did I mention the rain, climbs, and my sore legs? Gosh I'm hungry! Another cookie. More climbs and rain....continue for 2 weeks total.

Okay, sorry about that, but that's how I was feeling, thinking, and for the most part experiencing. So what follows is what else took place, besides rain, climbs, sore legs, and hunger. The detour out of Asheville was beautiful and traffic was really light on almost all parts. I really enjoyed the peace and quiet and mountain scenery after the social affairs of the city. After a night camped along a rising creek, with some strange vibes, it was more peace and quiet along mountain backroads. That night I reached the Blue Ridge Parkway and spent the following day waiting out the weather, only wandering outside the tent during a few hours of sunshine. The third day out I actually got to cycle the Blue Ridge. It was nice and enjoyable. I spent the afternoon wandering around Linnville Falls. I was in a rush, I don't know why, so I sat and gazed upon the beauty. I hiked all the viewpoints and watched a Black Racer snake climb a tree and climb into a mice next. One mouse dropped over 20 feet to escape the snake's belly. Then I rode off and found a camping place. I also discovered that most of the pkwy campgrounds don't open until mid-May, this would be a mostly positive aspect.

The next day was an odd set of occurences. It involved rain and more road detours. I descended into Boone, which I was thinking of visiting, but decided not too. Now I had too. I wan't out of the rain and off the bike, through with things. After little sympathy from local bike shops a local gave me a place to stay. Then I saw some folks from the Pkwy, who had just moved from California, a trip that took me 4 months, they did it in 5 days. I happened to look very much like the guy's brother. We had a wonderful dinner party! The young man working at the grocery store had cycled the Trans-Am route 2 years ago. Gosh this was weird and Boone is a nice town! I road out of Boone refreshed and with bags of food the following day.

On Sunday I passed into Virginia, my 10th state, and at the Blue Ridge Music Center got sunny skies and a wonderful small concert from the local musicians. Then I headed North, enjoying Mabry Mill, rested a bit at Roanoke, saw my first bicycle tourist since Florida along the James River, after a grand descent... after a long climb. Ben and I shared a campsite and compared notes on the roads ahead, me heading North, he South. It was good and talking with another cyclist was just what my lagging morale needed. Began seeing some Appalachian Trail thru-hikers as the trail crosses the Pkwy, passed out cookies to folks who walk a long ways. Two days later at the end of the Blue Ridge Parkway (a good sense of relief, but also a touch of sadness) I descended into Waynesboro for more groceries and a library. Discovered a great shoe cobbler who fixed the failed velcro on my cycling shoes. I also got Appalachian Trail insight, sound advise, and saw a priceless Wright Brothers' made wheelchair. Am very tired, sored, and disgusted of rain.

I spent three days in Shenandoah along the Skyline Drive. With it's national park status and the weekend it was a bit busy, but it gets much busier. Saw a black bear, did laundry, and showered. Felt very good and lifted my spirits. On May 16th, my birthday, I ended up riding my bike. I took a nice hike to a backcountry falls and wandered around. Ate more peanut butter and jelly sandwiches. A thunderstorm knocked out power at Lewis Mountain so I couldn't buy my birthday meal. Ended up talking with two AT hikers who are tired of walking and the rain. Could not call my best friend in Colorado and that really sucked. We traded woes and then headed on. I decided to head to Big Meadows and got bacon, beer, and eggs. Then the rain got up with me once again. Soaked I set up my tent in the solitute of the forest. Got as dry as possible, wetted my whistle with beer, enjoyed bacon and egg tortillas.

The next day rain threatened. I saw a mother and cubs near Elkwallow. Discovered an AT hut, but suprisingly no hikers. Cleaned things up a bit, read the hut logbook, and camped out. The next day I left the Park and road into Front Royal. I road towards Leesburg and discovered the beautiful Virginia countryside. Lots of farms, horse plantations, and more traffic, even on the backroads. Fortunately I picked up the Washington and Old Dominion rail trail into Leesburg. It was a nice town and I found a Safeway, but no jumbo cookies of my dreams. Hung out at the library until my Mom arrived from Michigan. Then we headed for a nice hotel...and so the journey continues.

Asheville

In my numerous entries I have never once dedicated a whole post to one city, until now. My excuse is that I haven't spent so much time in one place since the trip began. I only planned to stay for two nights, yet because of the limited planning I do it just happened.

I rolled into Asheville tired and frazzled from my rush thru busy traffic and narrow roads. Getting into town was a 20 mile act of desperation that I surely wasn't expecting. But I made it and called my host. By the time he arrived I had settled down and stopped sweatings so a beer at the local brewery was in order. After this initial introduction we road to his house which is at the top of a short, but steep hill. I was out of food so we had more cycling to do to the local grocery store. My legs were tired and my brain was fried. Mike, my host made a wonderful curry rice dish as we traded cycling stories and he gave me the low down on Asheville. Then it was time for bed. What follows is a brief, but hopefully somewhat exciting account of my activities over the next few days in and around Asheville.

The next day I wandered around Asheville on foot. Most people, most recently myself, believe that Asheville is bike friendly, but this is a wrong perception. The city is working on it and there are plenty of bike commuters, but there is much work still to be done, and Asheville on Bikes is leading the charge. I found my way to the Thomas Wolfe memorial and discovered another famous author. Then I wandered around town somewhat aimlessly. Along the way I visited local bookstores, the food co-op, the local library, and the bicycle co-op. Then I headed for the house and Mike and I headed for a friend's house for a splendid dinner. I'm getting spoiled quick! From there we eventually made our way to a bar previewing a movie which documented a local dance competition. In the course of the film dances were concieved, practiced, and performed in only 48 hours! Then it was time for some salsa dancing. Ah, how I miss Mexico. Speaking of which I have stopped mentioning my foray into Mexico because of the recent scare and the now inevitable question "You don't have swine flu do you?".
The next morning I spent hours on the Internet catching up on things I'd been putting off. Then I rode to the local bike shop to get a new chain and cassette. It cost almost a hundred bucks and I hate spending money, yet it's much cheaper to maintain than a car. I also discovered that two of my New Orleans hosts were passing thru and excitedly made tenative plans to get together. I got some groceries and headed back to the house. The frozen pizza wasn't good, but I was starving. I made some chocolate chip cookies from frozen dough; improvizing baking sheets and smoking the place out. Fortunatly the fire department was flushing the fire hydrants 100 yards away so now worries. Around four Mike got back from work and then his friend Matt showed up. We ended up heading out to Hot Springs to clear trees and mark the race course for this weekends ride. Riding my bicycle on some single track was fun. We ate in town and did stuff and then headed back to Asheville.

The next morning I met my New Orleans hosts and it was incredible to see some familiar faces again. I am so excited for their ride across the country. I didn't do much the rest of the day. But the next day I went to the elementary school where Mike teaches 6th grade and told the class about my travels. Then I answered some questions, good ones too, since the class is going on their own end of semester bike tour. I road back to the house in the rain, but enjoyed it with the knowledge that I could throw my clothes in the dryer. Then I walked to Matt's place of work and we headed out to Hot Springs for the French Broad River Festival. We eventually met Dave there and set up the yurt for the mountain bike race put on by Asheville on Bikes. I hung out in the yurt not doing much, except talking to a lot of folks and drinking beer. Stacey had a wonderful Southern accent, hard to find these days. Tracey's husband made the most wonderful chocolate chip cookies. Things were good, people were enjoying themselves, and the bands were pretty good. The music and going ons continued until long after I had gone to bed.

The next day a lot more people signed up for the bicycle race, which took place in the rain. Folks came off the course muddy and wet, but with smiles on their faces. I hung out, wandered around, and then went into Hot Springs. It was good to get away from the noise for a bit and get some solid food to add to the liquid. Met some more folks, listened to some more music, drank some more beer. Later that evening before the award ceremony an awesome Zydeco band really got the crowd pumped and dancing. As darkness fell I wandered around a bit, but mostly hung around the yurt chilling. People are becoming tired and more mellow. More fun and excitment. Eventually went to sleep.

The next day it was raining again. Folks woke up and packed up. Tearing down the yurt was amazingly easy! Took the scenic route back to Asheville. The festival was a blast, but I'm tired and ready for some peace and quiet. Took a nap, found a new book to read, had a good dinner. Worked out the route to the Blue Ridge Parkway and then went to bed. So I've been in and around Asheville for 6 days and now I really need some rest. I'll surely get some climbing and simple food as the journey continues.

Heading North in the South

Leaving St Augustine on a sunny Sunday morning the colorful bicycle jerseys of the club riders kept whizzing by me. The wind was at my back and I thought about attempting to catch up to some of their pacelines, yet commonsense told me no. The route North traced parrellil to the Atlantic Ocean and every so often it would come into few. It was a great day for simply cruising along in the sunshine. Finally a good of cyclists slowed down enough to talk and they invited me to their lunch stop. It turned out the colorful jerseys belonged to a Jacksonville cycling club.  Over good burgers, watermelon, and brownies I chatted with the locals while being treated like a cycling celebraty. One girl had gone to Colorado State in Fort Collins and it was great to compare notes on that wonderful place of my most recent habitation. Three other northbound bicycle tourists also rolled up and joined the party. I talked with them a bit, but after departing never saw any of them again. Finally I drew myself away and continued North, passing the various beaches teaming with tanned people in bathing suits (wonder how that sun will treat them later in life?). I took a five minute ferry across to Fort George Island (can't figure why they just don't build a bridge to save the wait). I turned off on a dirt road to explore a plantation and wandered around the place a bit before headed for Fernandina Beach. Folks had told me that this was a cool town and I was also contemplating heading over to Cumberland Island for a few rest days. Unfortunately I ended up stuck at the local state park that cost $25 and had tons of roaming raccoons. It sucked big time and I was bummed about wasting a large sum of money. 

The next morning I was tired and only looked around Fernandina very briefly. It seemed like an okay resort community. Then I spent the morning braving the busy four-lain traffic. Finally I turned off onto a side road and was soon in Georgia. I had to cross a bridge with metal grating and it was like ice under my tires, but I made it across without ill effects. After that Georgia was pretty much cycling bliss. I didn't notice how much the traffic  along the Coast had bummed me. This is the first state that I really enjoyed cycling because they had some incredibly quiet backroads, friendly folks, and plenty of forests to camp in. The word I would use to describe Georgia is unpretentious. I would have enjoyed the state even more if not for the fact that I was feeling oddly fatigued. It was a tough five days necessitating mental fortitude.  Passing thru the state I would see many old houses and barns slowly dissappearing into a forest tangle of trees and vines. Unfortunately I got my first flat tire (after 5,000 miles) before the S. Carolina line. I decided to rotate my front and rear tires because the rear tire was getting really bald. So after a late start I crossed the mile-long dam along the Strom Thurmond Lake. 

So South Carolina became my 7th state of visitation, which is my favorite number, kind of lucky you might say. After hanging out at the visitor center above the largest reservoir East of the Mississippi I road out along the quiet road. My rear wheel was acting strange and after a few miles I pulled off the road just before the tire exploded like the blast of a gunshot. I carried no spare and was stranded. Gosh dern!!! I utilized my thumb and was picked up in about 15 minutes by a guy who went out of his way to take me to a bike store. We got to talking and it turned out that he was also a natural resource and tourism graduate. After purchasing two new tires he dropped me off where he had picked me up only an hour or so earlier. I fixed the tire and was back on the road.  Later in the afternoon I stopped in McCormick to use the Internet and pick up some groceries. As I was heading out of town three African American men hailed me down. They were mellowing out after the work week and we got to talking. Eventually the question of money for food came up and one of them ended up simply handing me a 20 dollar bill. Nobody has every given me money for simply talking with them, yet these were some really cool men. Just goes to show ya never know what is going to happen on the road if you approach things with an open mind.

The next morning I broke camp and by late morning rolled into Iva. The sun has been getting hotter and I was planning to hang out for a few hours to avoid the heat. I went to the local a found some ice cream and returned to a park bench of lunch. Then I headed over to the library to use the Internet. The librarian even gave me a free book to read, which I was in need of. Exiting the library I got to talking with some locals sitting outside. They invited me over for lunch and one thing lead to another. I chatted with John Denny (a history buff) and his brother Charles (a world traveled missionary). They sure had stories to tell, especially the fight to save the historic Iva drugstore from needless distruction. I also met Brandon, a teenage local boy, who gave me an incredible tour of the town. It's a small town and could have taken ten minutes, but he knew enough dates and trivia to keep us occupied for over an hour. I was very impressed!! I don't know of many folks who could have done same in their hometown. He was also very interested in my mode of transportation and may someday travel by bicycle. He loves his small hometown and I wonder if all this traveling is just so I can find someplace for myself. Which is better to travel to exotic places or to remain in a place that one can call home? 

We headed back to the house and hung out on the roof watching the cars pass by. After an hour or so we got off the roof and Charles took us to the local pizza joint. I had an awesome Philly cheese steak pizza. Then we returned to the house, once Iva's, who the town was named after (if I remember right she was John Denny and Charles great aunt. The house was filled with history, to say the least. We did some more front porch sitting in rocking chairs, which is a Southern art form. I've been wondering if all those older men sitting outside the gas stations, local market, or on the front porch just passing the hours have really got something figured out that youthful years can not comprehend. Charles entertained us with incredible stories of life in the Congo, Asia, and old Soviet States. I spent the night in a very comfortable bed, the first bed in 6 weeks (since a hotel in Mexico)! The next morning Charles took me out to breakfast and I got my biscuits n' gravy fix. Then I cycled out of town on a sunny Sunday morning and by late afternoon caught my first glimpse of the Blue Ridge Mountains. 

I haven't seen mountains in over almost two months, since cycling over from Mazatlan, Mexico. I was so gleeful!! It feels more like home. Mountains just have a feel about them, that those who have spent time among them learn to recognize and appreciate. I began seeing more Subarus and pickups loaded with bicycles, kayaks, and Yakima racks. Folks dressed to the outdoor lifestyle and bearded men became more common. The altitude seems to left peoples spirits and it certainly has mine. I stealthed camped that night in the leaf strewn forest and the next morning headed for the North Carolina border. Soon after the border I stopped at the Carl Sanburg National Historic Site. Don't know much about the man or his family, but the more I found out about them the more fondness and admiration I had. Any man who can pen "I'm an idealist. I don't know where I'm going, but I'm on my way." and "It is necessary now and then for a man to go away by himself and experience loneliness; to sit on a rock in the forest and to ask of himself, 'Who am I, and where have I been, and where am I going?'"   The tour of the house was surreal, displayed like the family would walk thru the rooms at any moment. Books were lain about, a box of tissues on the nightstand, various papers strewn about. I really enjoyed the peacefulness of the setting, which was good because the ride into Asheville was nerveracking, tons of traffic and bad cycling roads. More about Asheville later....

From the Bayous to the Big Blue

Well I done it! It's big and blue and if ya taste the water it will probably be salty. On Friday I reached St. Augustine, Florida and the Pacific, which completes my roundabout cross-country bicycle tour. This is my first West-East crossing. Although this is a great landmark my emotions are tempered by the thoughts that this is simply the end of phase 2 of my journey.

I had a grand time in New Orleans. My wonderful hosts even baked me some chocolate chip M & M cookies, plus some wondrous split pea soup. Soon they will start their journey East from San Francisco. I wish ya'll the very best! From New Orleans I road along the Gulf of Mexico thru Mississippi and Alabama. I can't recall if I've ever been in these states before, maybe just a touch of the Natchez Trace a few years back. Although the coast had it's beautiful, very beautiful spots there was also the common high rise resorts that blocked my views and access to the Gulf. Traffic was also a bit busy, but the bridges finally have shoulders! There was also obvious hurricane damage in some areas. The coast certainly has a different feel from the rest of the state, I can only assume.

Crossing into Florida I had the wonderful stroke of luck to discover free primitive camping at the Perido Keys unit of the Gulf Islands National Seashore. I ended up spending two nights along the white sandy beaches. As I was a half-mile from the parking lot I had relative solitude. I swam in the temperate water of the Gulf, read my book along the shore, and enjoyed some good food and libations. It was a wonderful experience full of glee and serenity! The rest of my journey across Florida was also not lacking in adventure. I cycled along Hwy 90 for a good potion of the way along the Southern Tier route. Although the towns were historic and beautiful and traffic was pretty light, every town seemed to have a correctional facility and some of the locals seemed to be recently released. I would have liked to have stayed along the coast, but was warned by some that traffic was too heavy. I do wonder.

As for the adventure... I spent a night in the woods with a unknown murder suspect on the loose (which explained all the cop cars and search helicopter). I also passed thru Tallahassee, which has the ugliest capital building because it was built in the 70's (the old beautiful capital is now a wonderful museum). Near Monticello I got permission to camp on private land next to a peaceful pond, which one man casually mentioned had alligators ("these ones are afraid of humans". I saw a 9 foot one the next morning from a safe distance). East of Lee Hwy 90 was flooded due to heavy rains and I had to head South sooner than planned. West of Gainsville two women stopped on the side of the road and asked if I needed anything. I ended up staying in their spare trailer. It was wonderful doing laundry, getting a shower, and watching some movies. The next day they gave me a wonderful tour of the property and we drove to a natural spring (which was flooded out) all the while talking constantly about Jesus and God. They were certainly believers and headed me out grandly. Then I met up with Diana and David in Gainsville and spent the next two days cycling to the Coast. The last day was a wee bit windy.

So that's about enough adventure for two weeks. That afternoon David and I walked along the beach of the Atlantic. The next day we toured the historic Spanish town of St. Augustine and had two excellent celebratory meals. It did feel a bit odd to pitch my tent amidst the mobile homes of the "RV park" at St. Augustine Beach.

So ends my cross-country tour. Thanks so much to all the folks who gave me place to stay, answered my questions, filled my water bottles, or simply talked to me. Ya'll made the journey all that much more special.

Since I can't go any further East (without a bit of planning and more money) I figure I'll just head North aways. So if ya ain't tired of my babbling stay tuned... and I'd love to hear from ya'll as the journey continues (like a comment or email, or something).

Living it up in Louisiana

Greetings from the fun-loving city of New Orleans!
I have survived the rains of Texas! My last few days cycling in Texas were pretty okay. I decided to take a slight detour to check out Big Thicket National Preserve and it was totally worth it. The preserve is made up of different environments; the one I visited was mid-slope something or other. The trees, bushes, and vines intertwined to make a confusing jumble of vegetation. I hike some of the trails and due to the recent rains much of the hiking was thru waist deep water. As I was wading thru the thicket the thought came to mind that I had forgotten to ask the ranger about alligators. After that every small sound became an alligator coming for a naive desert rat. I did survive and a side benefit is that the cool water really helped my sore knee. That night was spent amid the sounds of insects in another portion of the preserve.

The next day I did laundry, finally patched up my sleeping pad (it's been flat for 3 weeks), and then crossed the border into Louisiana. It's a brand new state for me and it has a lot of wetlands, besides using parishes instead of counties. I have since discovered that if it's dry land there's usually a house there. Thus my camping sites have been unique; outside the DeRidder fairgrounds, a police dispatcher's backyard, a city park, the parking lot of a library, and then peoples' houses. It's been an experience! Plus the people can't really seem to wrap their heads around the fact that I've chosen to ride my bike. Along the way I also had the good fortune to meet up with Diana and Dave, who are going coast-to-coast on the Southern Tier route. Unlike me their tour is a fundraising campaign the "Navajo United Methodist Center’s New Beginnings Program which is a transitional shelter for women and their children who are survivors of domestic violence or homelessness" (for more great info check out their blog at http://wheelingcoast2coast.blogspot.com/). It was awesome to have some folks to ride with a talk to after 3 weeks of riding alone.

They were also kind enough to take me to Port Allen, where I picked up my first resupply package of the trip. It is also the spot where I survived a truly torrential downpour. That afternoon I cycling South to Donaldsonville and had the wonderful fortune to run into the cycling club there out on a ride. Within in a short span of time I had a shower, place to stay, and some exquisite Louisiana fare. It was truly incredible!! The next day I cycled South eventually crossing the Mississippi River, finally, and cycled atop the levee to my house via a cycling network website. After meeting my three wonderful hosts we spend the night talking touring, poring over maps, and just talking over good food.

The following day I headed, like many a tourist to the French Quarter. I spent hours walking among the beautiful old buildings. Eventually I burned out on all the walking and tourist vibe and headed for Louis Armstrong Park. There I saw a wonderful demonstration of Brazilian instruments, plus the maddest tambourine fancy work I'll ever see, followed by a Congo-like band performance. It was so gone! Found some good bookstores, including William Faulkner's old haunt. Then I toured the National Park historic sites, listening to some soulful jazz and blues. After that it was onto more grand local book hideouts. To get back to the house I hopped the St Charles street car (the oldest continually operating in the U.S.). After a quick snack I walked around the Ferret Street Market, gazing at all the local crafts and good Louisiana cooking. I finally ate some crawfish, which takes a lot of work. From there I listened to an awesome band perform; the crowd really jiving with the tunes. No ban on open alcohol containers in this town! Before this busy day was done I watched "Black Orpheus" back at the house.

Today was spent along the River, visiting the local gear shop, and just lounging around eating lot of food. More fun to be had. Tomorrow I continue East and will soon be in Mississippi. If all this sound remotely exciting, my poor writing really doesn’t compare to the full experience. And so it goes...

Farewell to Mexico and unto Texas and rain

Wow! A lot has passed since my last update.
My last few days in Mexico were full of thoughts of chocolate chip cookies and eager to communicate with people in English. While I was in somewhat of a rush for the border I was also very sad to be leaving Mexico. It has been so wonderful here. My last two nights were spent in hotel rooms to help ease the transition. Two days before leaving Mexico I was riding thru a town looking for the centro district and while I was looking both ways, hit a huge pothole right in front of me. Now my front rack was broken and mangled. Using brute force I bent it into usable condition. Unfortunately my front wheel got knocked out of true, badly. Enough bad luck in this town I dragged my tired overheated body to the next town twenty miles further. The proprietor of the hotel wanted too much money and I was getting a somewhat bad vibe from the man who may of been trying to help me. So I left town. I finally arrived in the next town, thus combining two days riding into one, and just as it was getting dark found a reasonable hotel. I showered and went out to dinner, with two margaritas. Although I was exhausted from riding over 100 miles I washed my laundry in the sink and fixed my wheel.

The next morning I organized my gear, washed my bike, and rode out of town under threatening skies. Yet as I entered Piedras Negras the sun came out and I decided to stop for lunch. I ordered two enchiladas and three gorditas. The gorditas were amazing! I ordered three more. This is a very nice looking border town. Very full I checked in with immigration, paid the bridge toll, and went across the Rio Grande early afternoon.

Customs was not much of a delay and I quickly found the Eagle Pass visitors center. Then it was onto the post office, huge grocery store, and the library. I was planning to spend the night in a hotel and adjust to the change of cultures, but ended up riding out of town to spend the night in the desert. So about Texas. The chip seal road surface in many locations has left my mind and posterior wishing for Mexican roads. And everything is so expensive once again. Basically until I got to Boerne, Texas I was truly wishing to be back in Mexico. My mind and body was exhausted. Luckily I found a great bicycle shop, The Bicycle Shack, which just happened to have the front rack I needed. Tic and Brian were awesome and got my bike in order. Things progressed to drinking awesome brews at the Dodging Duck Brewhaus with more new friends, then a great bbq, more beer, and a place to stay for the night. Thanks so much to they guys and gals in Boerne. The next day I set out for Luckenbach, Texas a "town" made famous by Waylon and Willie's "Let's go to Luckenbach, Texas...). Then I headed to the Lydon B. Johnson ranch. Touring the ranch was really interesting, but the wind and the road was miserable.

The following day I reached Lockhart at dark and this historic town looked so cool I stayed the night in the nearby campground. The next morning I toured the town, got an awesome and much needed haircut in a barbershop that has been operating in the same locale for over a hundred years, and had some good bbq in the bbq capital of Texas. The next day I left the physically trying Texas Hill Country. And then the clouds and rain started. It's been either clouding or raining for 4 or 5 days! I got marooned by a big thunderstorm outside of Brenham. Fortunately my Dad was able to hook me up with a wonderful free pizza from Dominos Pizza (owned by the friendly Zangs) and this helped me make it thru the weather. The next day I also found some incredible apple pie and a great chocolate chip cookie in a gas station. And the clouds and rain continued the next day during my visit to Washington, the birthplace of Texas, where their Declaration of Independence was signed. Camped among the towering pines of Sam Houston National Forest and had my first campfire in a while. Saw the sun at dusk and then the next day got rain and hail. My gear is soggy from the rain and humidity. My spirits are a bit tried, but sun is finally in the forecast for tomorrow.

Sun, Sun, PLEASE PLEASE come out and play. I shall be in Louisiana in the next few days, hopefully with sunny skies

A HUGE thanks to all the folks in Mexico for such a wonderful experience. I will be back; and know more Spanish.

I love Mexico!!

My Gosh! So it´s the good, the bad, and the ugly. So beginning with my departure from Mazatlan ... kind of confusing. Fortunately I´m a guy who´s not afraid to ask for directions. But gosh dern, I don´t speak much Spanish. Well it seemed that the man said that this was the way. Yep, I´m on the right road. Along the way to Villa Union there´s goats, a donkey, and a roster along side the road, all alive (I wish the rooster was dead- contrary to myth rooster call at all times of night and day- it´s truely mading. Villa Union is a nice town, beautiful plaza and church. I ate some food from a street stand, I don´t know what it is, except that it´s some sort of taco and it tastes great! That afternoon I begin heading towards Durango. Stop by a few beautiful small towns, talk with the local policia. Eat more food. Witness a 4 wheeler plunge off the cobblestone road, guy was okay. Construction worker gives me a cervasa. Good.

Day 2 from Mazatlan: Continue to climb into the mountains from the sea. Many open views and small towns seem to cling to the mountainside. Stop at a panadaria (bakery) and get some sweets. My legs are tired from climbing. Pass North of the Tropic of Cancer. I have some gorditas (kind of like small pitas with stuff inside). Deside not to attempt the feared Espinazo del Diablo in the fading light. Find the only camp spot off the road. It´s not great. Good.

Day 3: Continue climbing. Espinazo del Diablo no longer has 1,000 foot drops on each side. Exposed like the rest of the road. Oh my gosh!! Two and a half days of climbing. The pine trees are a welcome sight after the desert. Where my jacket for the first time in weeks. Reach what may be the summit, at least the sign said something, I have no idea what. The small outpost kind of reminds me of Leadville, Colorado. I miss that place. I begin going down a bit more frequently. My altimeter tops at 9, 223 feet. Coming from sea level that´s a brute of a climb. Hardest ever in fact. I´m tired and feeling the effects. Bad. I decend to near El Salto. Two guys in a pickup stop by the road and ask about my trip, one in English. A few minutes later I´m eating an excellent lunch (my second one). The place is like a resort camp, fishery, etc. I´m able to spend the night in a cabin, compliments of my new amigo Yoshijiro (Mexican with a Japenese name). That afternoon he, Hector, Edgar, and I cruze in the pickup to the local tunnel and rock formations. Haven´t gone this fast in weeks!! That night I call my Mom for the first time in 2 months (cheap phone service), meet an extended Mexican family, and eat an awesome meal. Spending time in their house talking with them thru Yoshijiro was one of the best hightlights of the trip. They are such a welcoming and friendly family. They offer to let me stay for as long as I like, yet I crave the chocolate chip cookies of America. I hope to visit them when I speak much better Spanish. They are so wonderful, like so many Mexicans I have met along the way. Muy bien.

Day 4: The morning is near freezing. I haven´t been this cold in months! Riding of El Salto there is construction. I´m covered in dust and dirt after a quarter mile of riding off pavement. So much for the nice shower. Bad. Ride to Durango. Spend the afternoon driving around Durango with Yoshijiro and his friend Alex. Even see a bicycle track. Stay the next day at his house eating, reading, resting, and watching tv. Good.

Day 6: Ride almost a hundred miles after good food and rest, plus the road is largely flat. That afternoon a dust storm sweeps thru. I decide to tempt fate and ride out of town. A weird sound appears. My front rack is broken. I ride into the headwind back to town. Of course the bicycle shop doesn´t have the rack I need. It´s a nightmare, I need help, and I don´t know how to communicate. Ugly. Finally a welder is located and he fixes the rack for about 4 dollars. Ride out of town and make awesome time with an incredible tailwind. Find a place to spend the night. Good.

Day 7: The next morning it´s raining. Less than an hour later my rack breaks again. I´m cold, wet, and broken. Ugly. I jimmyrig the rack with my spare wheel spokes. I add additional duck tape throughout the day. The rain stops and I once again make good time. I make my way thru the big city of Torreon with the help of a local cab driver. I ride about a hundred miles that day and spend the night in the nice town of San Pedr0. I splurge on a hotel room for 200 pecos (about 13 dollars). I shop, eat, shower and watch tv. Bad and Good.

Day 8: Ride thru the desert with a horse that has no name :0 (at least for a few hundred yards). Get water and a burrito from the only place along the ruta. They give me a free 40th anniversary t-shirt from the restaurant. Mexican-American stops and asks me¨"what´s up?" I haven´t heard the expression in a while I don´t know how to answer it. Find a nice place off the ruta to camp. Low mountains surrounding the dessert are incredible beautiful. PB and J for Dinner (I´m to lazy and tired to cook).

Half of Day 9: Reach the beautiful town of Cuantrociengas. Eat some great chicken. Should reach Eagle Pass, Texas in about 4 days. Still craving a chocolate chip cookie.

I LOVE Mexico!!!

Adios Baja... hola mainland Mexico

Cheers and Beers from Mazatlan! Gosh! so much has transpired since my last posting. If I were to attempt to relate to you everything that has happened in the past few weeks ya´ll would easily be reading for the next half hour. Due to the fact that this blog ain´t yet on the ´Top 10 List´ I am not willing to risk losing the few readers I have due to boredom.

Muluge, Loreto, La Paz, Los Cabos, Mazatlan... the names, dates and events all seem to run together in a confused jumbled of cycling madness. I had my first tamales in Mulege and now I´m hooked. Along the Bay of Conception my legs grew tired from the rolling terrain and my eyes from gazing at the incredible beauty. In Loreto I experienced my first contact with large numbers of tourists. Fortunately if also served as a meeting place for half a dozen cyclists headed South. A few days later we met up again with Nico, a Belgium cyclist coming South from Alaska. In La Paz I wondard the streets bustling with people. That night we all were shown around town by Nico´s couch surfing host Laura. It was her doing that led us all to our first Mexican bar scene. 50 pecos (about $3 U.S.) cover charge and we had all the drinks free for an hour. The blaring music was a mix of popular Mexican and American music. Except for the fact that we had the lightest complexion in the joint the scene was much like any college bar in the U.S. The next day was spent relaxing and running various errands. That night Laura and her niece took us out to the mall and bowling. It was really great to have a local show us around and answer a multitude of questions that needed answering.

The following day we (including Nico) draged our now lazy bodies out of La Paz and headed for Cabo. The scenery was great and the terrain was tough. Los Cabos was a mash of humanity...especially overweight American tourists. This is not the Mexico we have come to enjoy and we eventually found a quiet public beach. We spent the afternoon hours swimming at the southern tip of Baja and talking with two very nice tour operators who were happy to share the shade of their tent with us. Later that afternoon we cycled North. We found a secluded beach a half mile off the road. The waves were really pounding the surf and we carefully enjoyed our last frolic in the waves of the Pacific after two months of companionship. Another companionship is also ending. My brothers (and Nico) have decided to headed North to Arizona. Meanwhile after much thought I´ve decided to head NW from Mazatlan.

Two days later we were back in La Paz. Due to the ferry schedule I was forced to leave that same night. So the next few hours I rushed around buying a radio, Bimbo jersey, and groceries. Passage for me and my bike was about $90 US. Getting on the ferry was a bit nerve racking, but I made it. I even made some very basic conversation with a local truck driver. The ride was nice and they even showed some movies. After 18 hours on the ferry we docked in Mazatlan. I was worried about finding a cheap hotel in a foreign city, but it took me only half an hour. It was only 200 pecos (exchange rate is about 14:1). I began exploring the town without a map and managed not to get lost. Today I took an early morning ride along the coast and then explored some of the sights of Mazatlan.

So tomorrow I leave the Pacific and begin my journey towards East Texas. My route will be Mazatlan-Durango-Torren-Saltitto-Monterrey-Texas. You´ll have to keep reading to see how it goes.

P.S. I´m still having problems with uploading photos. Here is a link to some of my photos. Some are new and some are old. Uploading photos is a pain so it´s still disorganized, but it´s something.
http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=278509878/a=108375668_108375668/otsc=SHR/otsi=SALBlink/COBRAND_NAME=snapfish

The Sea of Cortez

Watching the whales was incredible! The drive out to the lagoon was along a windy bumpy dirt road that would have caused anyone motion sickness. Fortunately no one was so afficted. Once at the lagoon eleven of us were loaded unto a small boat via a pickup truck backing up into the narrow water. For the next three hours we wandered the waters looking at the whales. This place is incredible, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We saw numerous grey whales breach the surface in the distance. We saw whales mating and young ones. They came very close to the boat and some people actually were able to touch them. Taking photos was tough though because you had to aim at the right spot at just the right time, hope no one stepped in front of your camera, and the whales never appeared in the same place twice. It was truely a memorable experience!

That same day we left Guerrero Negro and with the help of a good tailwind made excellent time. For the next two days the terrain was mostly flat a filled with various cactus. Stopping at San Ignacio the next evening was wonderful. It is a very picturesque town nestled in the San Franciso Mountains (which are home to N. America´s greatest collection of cave paintings; something for next time). California fan-plams are prevelant throughout the town and the small city center was beautiful. The old Jesuit mission there was in wonderful shape and awe inspiring. We decided to spend the night along the palm lined riverbank.

I went to the local market and found some baked goods. I was so happy to find out that I had bought some banana bread. I have been craving it in a big way and never expected to find it. My breakfast of eggs and bread was beyond incredible! We went back into town to look at the cave painting museum. We had a wonderful chat (in English) with the currator who was part of the local bike club. We talked about cycling and bikes. It was great to find out how popular cycling is in Mexico. The have regional races once a month. Unfortunately cycling gear is so expensive because they have to order from the U.S. So Mexico seems to have more of a bicycle culture than the U.S., but no easy means of acquiring gear. We planned on leaving town that morning, but the wind changed our minds. Unfortunately the next day wasn´t much better. Fortunately the afternoon wind died down a bit and we arrived in Santa Rosalia on the Sea of Cortez. It is a wonderful old French influenced town. So hopefully we shall rest up well, eat some good food, and enjoy our ride along the Sea before turning inland.

Cactus and Whales

Hola from Guerro Negro,

Finally after 7 days my glorious posterior has had the opportunity to grace a piece of porcelon. The bros and I have just finished crossing a sparcly populated stretch of beautiful Baja. From San Quintin we ended spending three days on the beach. I was recovering and meanwhile Dave got sick. There was a decent restaurant nearbye with excellent happy hour deals. Unfortunately all three nights in rained. Early morning of our second day I awoke with an odd feeling and a moment later a wave washed under my tent. Although we were safe from the normal high tide the sea was rapidly and quietly approaching. I rushed to drag my tent out of the way of the next wave. We all moved to the highest ground around, but the ocean almost got to us again.

The next day Mark and I returned to town for more groceries. We got some good pastries and a wonderful pizza.On the way back from town the rain began to fall. Our bikes were alreading ladden with mud. After three days the weather cleared and it was good to be moving South again. The ride along the coast was splendid. Unfortunately Mark was now feeling ill so the next day was another rest day. I decided to go into town and get some good food, which I was in dire need of. Tearing some meat in my teeth was very satisfying.

The following morning we left San Rosarita and headed into the hills. For the next three days the scenery was once again spectacular. Cactus were everywhere! Fortunately the wind pushed us along and we made good time. The road was narrow and windy, but traffic was light so it was not a problem. Most of the drivers and considerate and friendly. We averaged over 65 miles for three days, which is quite good. Now that we are once again conditioned we are able to ride long miles with time to spare. So now we are in Guerro Negro having finished an excellent lunch, done our laundry (first time in three weeks) and plan to shower. Oh the simple things. Tomorrow we are dolling out some good cash to hopefully see a lot of grey whales.

So here´s to whales, good food, and sunny skies ;-)

Baja, Mexico !!

Gosh this Spanish keyboard has a few differnces! I can´t figure out a few of the keys, so excuse my grammer. In short Baja is very beautiful and the people are friendly. Crossing the border at Tecate was a good choice, it is a very nice city. The scenery was incredible and has been improving every day. In Tecate we had our first Mexican meal at a restaurant, the first of many. Riding out of Tecate it was a bit hot and the climb was steep. I did not realize we were only 20 minutes for Tijuana.

We arrived in Escanada the next day and found a good hotel. It even had english television so I could watch some of the Super Bowl. We ate at a wonderful Chinese buffet 'Escanda has wonderful Chinese). The next morning we found the grocery store and then headed for La Bufadora, where the world´s second largest ocean geyser is located. Unfortunately it was not exploding much, but the campsite that night had wonderful views. We shared two 6' packs of Mexican cervasa for about $10. The next day we cycled back to HWY 1. Before riding on we sampled a recommended seafood cocktail 'octopus, srimp, clams). That afternoon the weather became quite warm, around 80 degrees. Later in the afternoon we turned off the HWY to head for the beach, headed for Coyote Cal´s hostel. The last 3 miles of road were horrible and the hostel was very overpriced. Fortunately we camped for free, did laundry, got more beer, and enjoyed a good dinner. Unfortunately I threw up six times that night, most likely due to the seafood cocktail. The next two days were absolute misery. Try riding with a sore back, dehydrated, no food in your stomach. Trust me it ain´t NO fun. Two days later and some quality toilet time later I´m better.

So now we our South of San Quinten and planning a rest day on the beach. Which is good because Dave´s snoring abilities have drastically increased in decibils. ARG. So here´s to nice weather and good health. At least I´m not in Ann Arbor where it´s 20 degrees today.

P.S. Sorry about no photos, but the computer is very slow.

Joshua Tree and Beyond

Greetings from Campo, California.
The journey goes well and I shall begin where I left off last time.
From Yucca Valley we stocked up on 3 days of food, which really loaded us down. Then we cycled East into the town of Joshua Tree. After a stop at the local gear store to stock up on last minute camping gear, we downed a 22 inch NY pizza with ease. The two bros have been craving pizza in a big way. Then we filled up with water, one and a half gallons each, and began climbing into the park. The weather was hot and the climb was hard. After 5 tiresome miles we entered the park and the road leveled out. The park was magnificent! Lots of rocks, cactus, and other high desert scenery. We slowed our pace a bit, yes it was possible, and enjoyed the sights. We also had to stop at every interpritive sign along the road. This park is most certainly a rock climbers paradise! That evening after finding a campsite we headed off to explore the surrounding area. After dinner we got invited to a campfire and talked with some nice folks. By 9 we were all in bed.

The morning air was cold (42 degrees)! We got on the road and stopped after a few miles to explore Jumbled Rocks. We scrambled among the boulders and hike the nearby trail. We were like young kids exploring small caves, cubbies, and rock piles with glee. As we began to get hungry we had to down climb thru a rock strewn ravine to get back to our bikes for lunch. Having satisfied our hunger we set off downhill. A roadside sign told us we were leaving the Mojave Desert and entering the Colorado Desert, which stretches South thru Baja. It took us a while to get into camp at Cottonwood Springs, which was are first water supply point in about 55 miles. We decided to spend the next day hiking to Lost Palms Oasis. The hike to the sheltered canyon filled with exotic California Fan-Palms was well worth the effort and we hung around there for a while, enjoying the solitude. Then after returning to our bikes we descended quickly out of the park and into BLM (Bureau of Land Management) land. The campsite that night was within the Box Canyon Wilderness. We found a single tree surrounded by vegetation, in the desert. Mark and I explored the surrounding area filled with numerous canyons and washes devoid of vegetation (think Badlands). We also had a good bonding talk around the campfire about the trip.

The next day we cycled to Mecca (not exciting) and along the Salton Sea. We took our first real shower in two weeks (very exciting!). That night we camped on the beach and finished off a bottle of champagne, and three wine-like beverages, all for under $12! It was a pleasant time ;-) The next day was full of suprises. We decided to do real laundry (not the usual wash bucket) in Niland, which is in the boonies. The locals told us about Salvation Mountain and Slab City. We got the grand tour of the mountain and a free meal at Slab City (the last free place in America, right next to a gunnery range). That night we had the aweful experience of camping at a county campground right next to a feedlot. Incredibly awful smell and we left the next morning without paying, all for good reason.

In Brawely we stocked up on groceries, as this shall be our last big grocery store in the states. Two cosmotology students approached us and offered free haircuts. So both Dave and I got free haircuts in exchange for a learning experience. Riding out of town we had Navy jets flying over our heads doing manuevers out of the local A.F base. That night we spent camped in the desert with a bottle of Jack (I don't like the stuff).

So onto today. We began climbing on interstate 8, which was awful, but the only way. Payback came later in the day when we enjoyed a marvelous downhill and gusting tailwinds. Tomorrow we shall enter Mexico via Tecate after almost 3 weeks on the road. We are excited and unsure of exactily what to expect. Hopefully all goes well.

Till then here's to adventure and good tailwinds ;-)

The Wind, oohh the Wind

Hiding from the wind in the Yucca Vally library, and about to enter Joshua Tree National Park. Since leaving the coast near San Luis Obispo we have experienced heavy winds in the afternoons. It was sad to leave the Pacific Ocean after only a week and knowing that we shall not see it for about 3 weeks or so. But it's better than passing thru L.A. and San Diego. The climb thru the costal range along HWY 166 was not as steep as expected. The hamburgers at the Burger Barn in Cuyama were awesome (first meat in more than a week)! The next day we had a few more hills before stopping in a small town. After a break the steep rollers were insane!! California has no concept of a gradual grade!! The scenery has been beautiful, but not great for photography as things are on such a large scale. A small photo would not do things justice. We took our first rest day outside of Lancaster at Saddleback Mountain State Park. Cooked up some burgers for lunch and a great soup with beer for dinner. Reading a whole lot, finished my 4th book of the trip. The next day we headed out and after a very tiring ride got our first free meal at the Burger Depot in very friendly Lucerne Valley. They also let us camp right next to the restaurant. It rained again that night; for the third night in a row. The long nights give one plenty of time for reading and self-reflection. Today we again experienced the wind and a bit of rain. Trying to teach Mark how to paceline and pace himself to conserve his energy.
Yet the fact that we are about to explore beautiful Joshua Tree will hopefully raise our spirits. Hopefully the wind will abait and the sunny skies return.
Till next time, Andrew

Sunnin' in Cali

Greetings from beautiful San Luis Obsipo,

First off, a 2 1/2 day train ride is a long time (beats my 36 hour record). Yet the gyros in Chicago's Greektown are awesome! It was also night to walk around Denver for a half hour, since it's the closest thing to home for me. A bit of boredom and lack of means to resupply on food were the main issues. We all slept a lot which helped pass the time. Too bad they never cleaned the bathrooms;-( The stay in San Francisco was good and gave us a chance to shower and regroup. The next day we must have walked ten miles from Fishermans' Wharf to Haight Asbury. I do like this city. (I also ended my first long bike tour here in 2001).

The next day we road across the Golden Gate brige and began our journey. So for the last 7 days we have been cycling along the coast and staying in campgrounds at night. The riding has been good, but our bodies are just beginning to adjust to the rigerous schedule. The route has been good, especially along Big Sur, where traffic really let up. The scenery is spectacular, but with the harsh sun photography is a challenge. The weather has been awesome, sunny and very warm. Everyone keeps telling us that we picked a good week, because it's usually in the 40s. The camp sites have been okay, but a bit exspensive. One night I chased a rancoon out of camp and a few hours later spooked a skunk that has its head in Mark's trailer. Navigating thru the bigger towns has also been an issue, with traffic and all. Dave's climbing ability has improved greatly and he is the strongest rider right now. I keep telling them both that we have to spend a lot of money on food because we have to eat a lot, and it has to be decent food. Plus a cold brew at days end is always good.

Soon we plan to head inland for Joshua Tree National Park, which shall begin the desert part of our soujourn.

The Time has Come

Well the New Year is upon us. I hope everyone is full of hope for good things to come in the New Year. As for me a lot is changing.
I have no place of permanent residence. I am currently unemployed. I no longer have a cell phone (resolution #1). I have a new email address (#2). I have also advanced technologically thanks to Christmas gifts. I now have a digital camera (no more film!) and an iPod. Thanks family!

Yet the biggest news, which I have only hinted at thus far, is the upcoming bicycle tour. I have not taken an extended bicycle tour since 2002 and a lot of time has passed. So now it's time for another grand adventure. I'll be riding with my two brothers on this one (Mark's blog http://www.threebrothersadventure.blogspot.com/).
Tomorrow we board the train for San Francisco. We'll arrive there 2 1/2 days later. After a recovery day in the big city we shall begin our ride southward from the Golden Gate Bridge. As the tires roll and the weeks pass we plan to cycle thru southern California, Baja, and mainland Mexico...
As a resent fortune cookie read "You will soon be crossing great waters on a fun vacation". May it be so.
So here’s to warm weather and cold beer, Salud