I slept uneasily in the eerie nightscape.
In the morning it was a short ride into Breckenridge, where amidst the hustle
of town I did the various rituals of necessary chores and featured enjoyments. At
City Market I bought more food than planned, cycled thru town with a quart of
chocolate milk in one hand, bought a huge bearclaw pastry at Daylight Donuts,
sweated in my rain gear while doing laundry, listened to a local transient man
chat up strangers in the town square, almost fell asleep over my beer at
Breckenridge Brewery, took a nap in the town park and waking up enjoyed another
beer at Broken Compass Brewery on my way out of town. A few miles up the Trail
I came upon Tumbleweed and with night approaching we decided to camp together. Across
the fire’s embers we traded tales of past outdoor adventures. Five days into
the trip and it was nice to have someone to chat with.
The next morning the Trail
continued to climb up into the Ten Mile Range. Oh gosh! in my estimation this
was the worst sustained climb of the whole Trail! 3,500 feet of elevation gain
and above treeline the Trail was nothing but large rocks, forcing me to push
and shove my loaded bike uphill. The climb dragged on and left me exhausted. When
I reached the crest, the wildfire smoke filling the valleys made the views look
more like the Smokey Mountains. It was a nice downhill though to Copper
Mountain where I couldn’t resist the urge for a quick detour to a nearby gas
station for treats. Then I cycled past the ski resort, resisting another urge
to veer off-trail two hundred yards for a burger and beer. The gentle grade up
the alpine meadow along Guller Creek was incredibly scenic! I fully enjoyed it,
taking a mid-day nap beside the creek, before cycling over Searle and Kokomo Passes
before making camp.
The next day was a quick descent
into historic Camp Hale, training grounds of the 10th Mountain
Division during WW II. Then up Tennessee Pass before a much too long three
miles (by trail thirty minutes, where the road would have taken only five) before
beginning the bicycle detour around Mt. Massive Wilderness. In the valley I
cruised along the pavement trying to outpace the dark clouds looming overhead. In Leadville (my first place of residence in
Colorado back in 2004) I ate lunch at the infamous taco truck, before heading
to the hostel. After a much-needed shower, I wandered about town, seeing the
familiar sights. Later when Tumbleweed got into town we had pizza and salad at
High Mountain Pies, drank beer in the historic and eclectic Silver Dollar
Saloon, and finished the night at Periodic Brewery. The next day was a full day
of the bike, resting and eating and enjoying this amazing mountain town.
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