Sunday, April 6, 2008

Wanderings in Canyon Country: Part II

We decided to establish a basecamp for three days from which to explore the surrounding area. So we headed back to Fruita and filled up with water. By four we were at the Pollack Canyon Bench trailhead. Between us there was at least seven gallons of water; needless to say our backpacks were very heavy. We signed the trail register and carried our burdens for about three sweaty miles. With full packs the descent down the slickrock to the canyon floor was a bit nerve-racking. Then for the next hour we searched for a good campsite. The cryptobiotic soil, which is thousands of years old and is all over the region, made our job a bit more complicated. An hour before dusk I found a site at the top of a rock bench looking deep into Pollack Canyon. Dinner was of the freeze-dried variety and okay. Then tired from our day of activity we retired to our sleeping bags.

The next day began with flavored instant oatmeal and cinnamon raisin bagels. By ten we were hiking towards Rattlesnake Canyon, which contains the highest number of arches in the U.S., outside of Arches National Park. The dirt and rock trail went up, down, and around for a few miles before we rounded the bend and saw the first cluster of arches. The first was shaped like a large open cavern and had a small window at the top. The second had a longer span and provided a view of the sky above. We wandered around taking pictures and exploring. The joy of exploration is so exhilarating! Then we headed down the trail towards the next arch. Somewhere in between Jeff and I became separated. I continued down the trail enjoying the scenery and taking photos. Then I stopped and ate lunch while I waited for Jeff to appear. He came running down the trail in a panic, thinking I had fallen off a cliff. I simply thought he was enjoying a peaceful lunch like me. We sorted things out and walked to the last arch. This arch was probably the most stunning with its wide span hanging free from the adjacent rock face.

After exploring the canyon and arches further we headed back to camp. We were tired and our faces reddened by the hot sun. We rested, reading our books, snacking, and exploring our rock bench. Two hours later we ate a dinner of mashed potatoes and salmon. The potatoes were okay, but I don’t really like fish. As the sun disappeared behind the canyon walls a full moon rose to illuminate the night sky. I crawled into my warm sleeping bag, read my book, and enjoyed some tea before falling off to sleep.

The next day we decided to explore Pollack Canyon. We followed the creek and at a fork followed the western tributary. For the next few hours we hopped rocks and crossed and re-crossed the creek countless times. Towards the end of the canyon we began to look for a way into the other side canyon. We weighed our options and decided to continue deeper into the canyon in hopes of finding an easier crossing. An hour later we reached the canyon’s end, but the route out looked somewhat sketchy so we backtracked. A side creek channel and break in the bench provided a possible crossing point. We slowly made our way uphill as the incline steepened and the wind became stronger. A storm seemed to be moving in, which in canyon country can be dangerous, due to the possibility of flash floods. After about half and hour we reached the top. Before descending into the next canyon we ate lunch.

At the bottom Jeff decided to head back to camp and I decided to explore this new canyon. A hundred yards South the canyon narrowed into steep black rock walls with a cascading series of waterfalls. For hours I clambered over waterfalls, jumped rocks across the creek, and explored the territory. I saw no evidence of any other humans. The sense freedom and discovery spurred me even deeper into Pollack Canyon. There were countless waterfalls of varying heights. At one I took off my shoes, rolled up my pants, waded into the muddy water, and clung to the rock to get a picture of a winding waterfall. Nearby was an arch perched on the rock bench. Its surroundings were similar to the famous Delicate Arch in Arches National Park. I followed the creek until it forked again and disappeared around a bend in the canyon. It was getting late and I was forced to turn back towards camp. On the way back I followed a faint trail created by bighorn sheep and explored an historic homestead. Back in camp I ate and rested before enjoying the beautiful sunset.

The next day we packed up camp. With only two liters of water apiece our packs were much lighter. With reluctance we walked out of the canyon, but I convinced Jeff to take the long way. There is simply so much to see and do, and civilization can wait. We split up again and I explored Flume Canyon alone while Jeff continued along the bench. It was beautiful, but not quite as splendid as the other canyons.

Back at the trailhead I washed off some of the dirt and grim with a wet bandana and changed into fresh clothes. Then we got into the car and headed into Fruita. Although I’ve passed by this town at least half a dozen times I’ve never seen the historic downtown so I tricked Jeff into driving through it; it took a whole minute. Fortunately we found the Hot Tomato CafĂ©, a great pizza joint, in downtown Fruita. We each drank a refreshing brew and between us consumed a whole eighteen inch pizza. We were hungry and the pizza was good. Then we headed back to our “civilized” lives back in Fort Collins, fortunate to have enjoyed another wonderful Spring Break experience in the backcountry.

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