Friday, December 1, 2017

Colorado Trail V - Victory Lap

Being embraced by the San Juan Mountains was such an amazing and comforting feeling! Naturally the Trail went up and as it did the views kept improving. My head was on a swivel and the camera constantly in my hand as views spread out in every direction. Another bikepacker caught up and together we cycled and pushed our bikes in the high alpine above Lake San Cristobal and Lake City. Last night’s freezing temps have dusted the surrounding peaks with fresh fall snow. I wished to be closer to water, as I had carelessly failed to fill up my water bottles and the first water source was eight miles distant. Yet the spectacular scenery easily helped me forget my thirst.  I stopped for lunch at the first water and then continued cycling uphill. A few miles more and I paused for a picture at the Colorado Trail’s highest point at an elevation of 13,271 feet. My reward was a short steep descent into another alpine mountain valley.




Although I have cycled less than twenty miles, the scenery and challenging terrain made for slow progress, so as dusk deepened I climbed out of one valley and into another. Camp was made where darkness found me, tonight it was bivouacked in a cluster of willows sheltered from the wind. My food supply was low, so the choice of dinner was based upon what food was left in my bags. In the morning the wind had strengthened into a gale. Trying to cycle above 12,000 feet with 30-40 mile per hour gusts was frustrating. I was forced to push my bike most of the way and struggled to catch my breath. Finally, I reached Stony Pass and began the spectacular descent through historic mining ruins into Silverton. In town I ate a whole twelve-inch pizza at Avalanche Café, attempting to recover from four days of accumulated calorie deficit. I had planned to rest up in town for the evening, but winter weather is forecasted two days hence, so I decide to past onwards. So, after stocking up on lots of heavy groceries at the small store I began the climb up to Molas Pass along Highway 550. After days of peaceful solitude along the Trail the traffic along the asphalt was unsettling. I was happy to return to the single-track above Molas Pass. In camp I saw the alpine glow to the East and the dim of Durango to the South.





In the morning the wind abated, and I enjoyed spectacular single-track riding that has obviously been ridden my many mountain bikes. To try and describe the scenery that I cycled past today would be an act of futility; it is best experienced. Twelve miles into Segment 27, I made camp at a scenic overlook surrounded by mountains. For my last night on the Trail I enjoyed the comforting glow of a campfire before climbing the warmth of my sleeping bag. The next morning the sun met me early over the mountain peaks and I cycled onwards. A few miles further and I was faced with the challenge of Indian Ridge, a series of false summits, narrow ridges and talus slopes. Although short it was by far the most challenging section of trail! I was relieved to descend to Taylor Lake and then after a short climb to Kennebec Pass begin the long-awaited for six-thousand-foot descent into Durango.  I cruised downwards and then began the last thousand-foot climb of the Trail. With relief I finished the climb and ate the last of my food. The cool alpine forests gave way to Gamble Oak and Ponderosa Pines and the closer I got the Trail’s end the more excited and relieved I became. 





Twenty-one days after leaving Denver I pedaled home into Durango. It has been a fulfilment of a dream and what an adventure at it has been. Yet my stomach required food, so I rode to Home Slice Pizza where I ate a tasty sixteen-inch pizza in one sitting. I was full and satisfied.